Famously (at least in fashion), he was first collected by and then later became a friend of Raf Simons, with whom he collaborated recently for Calvin Klein (draw the veil), and also earlier for a 2014 Simons collection.
For not only does he have 33 years of clothes-making experience (he first started with a sewing machine at age 13), but he is also an internationally renowned millionaire contemporary artist with a mighty aesthetic back-catalog to mine. However, it must be conceded that while a new person at the end of a runway, Ruby comes to the game with credentials no other debut designer has ever possessed. Sterling Ruby is certainly one of the most charming runway debutants ever-not at all up himself-and this collection was true of an outstanding standard for a first-timer. “That,” said Suzy Menkes, “was the best new-person collection I have ever seen.” Behind her, Pierre Rougier’s eyes widened at the compliment paid to his client by that most dauntless journalist, who has probably witnessed more collections than the rest of us put together.
“Yeah, well, that’s your own opinion, then.” Immediately after the show, held in a 19th-century hay manger, we hacks clustered into a room below that had originally been a horse shelter, the better to gaze at this fully-fledged fashion thoroughbred-no, this seeming unicorn of fashion who had suddenly appeared before us. In this space, where constructive criticism is always encouraged, perhaps the last word belongs to The Dude, whose quote appears on another T-shirt this season. If it seems she’s itching to experiment, she’s also still doing so within her own familiar framework. Discovering how Abe will Sacai-fy an idea from one season to the Radio silence shirt besides I will buy this next is part of the pleasure of attending her shows (the spliced-up music is often another).
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